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You could use 'C' channel to stiffen up the table or mount the legs if needed. The resin isn't great at taking a thread so its best to mount legs to the wood where possible.

Thanks for watching, glad you liked it.

We apply the oil after the sanding stage before using the polish on the resin area. There is no need to apply oil the epoxy as it doesn't soak into the material and will simply wipe off the surface. The glossy finish on the resin is achieved with polishing alone.

Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder - it'd be a pretty boring place to live if we all liked the same thing!!

Simply that we only have copper, gold and silver in our CULR range of pigments whilst there are a few other colours available including bronze in the SHIMR range. Because the CULR pigments are liquid we find them slightly easier to measure out in drops but you could absolutely use all powder or all liquid of the options were available.

If the stones are covered completely then the process is the same. If trying to sand around stones sticking out, that would be much more fiddly.

Writing it down helps!

The process would be similar apart from the tape barrier used to keep the resin in place. You would naturally need more resin to account for the additional area that the resin needs to cover on the bark edges and also any run off. You may need multiple layers of resin to fully coat the bark so one option wudl be to brush the resin onto the sides and build up the thickness that way. Then once completed you can do the final floodcoat over the top and allow it to run down and finish off the edges.

As long as the flowers are fully dried, any drying method can work yes. The crystal dry is a product anyone can use at home but if you have access to freeze dried flowers then these would be fine to use.

You can use any flower as long as they are completely dried out first. Just be aware that very small flowers will displace less volume so you may need more resin to fully fill your moulds.

@@glasscastresin thanks! Can I put the lilacs in salt? I don’t have this silica stuff

@@VanessaRaphael We have not tried drying flowers in salt. The silica is likely to be much more effective.

Glad you like the end result.

Yes you can pour epoxy over fabric however the colours will usually darken as they become wet out with the resin. It's usually worth testing on a small piece first to ensure that the colour/dye doesn't bleed into the resin.

We sell digital scales here: www.glasscastresin.com/accessories

Different flowers react differently to the drying process. The bubbles tend to naturally degas over time before the resin cures, although you can waft a heat gun gently over the surface to lift them or use a cocktail stick to dislodge ones around the petals etc. The dark red rose was the same one seen pouring throughout the video and at the end.

@@glasscastresin really? When you poured the resin in the middle of the flower, the petals were more open. Then at the end, the petals were all tight again. Did you move them? Remove the petals before curing?

@@mariatamburro No the flower was simply left as it was without any further manipulation. It could just be the refraction of the light distorting the view of the flower slightly and making it appear to be more closed up.

In theory once dry. However it is quite likely the tea bag will change colour and the tea leaves themselves may well leach tea into the resin discolouring it. You may want to experiment sealing the bag with brush applied resin in the hope it stops that happening.

Unfortunately this kit is not yet available from our EU website.

We sell our resin by weight, so working in weight helps to quantify the amount required. The resin can be measured and mixed both with a volume ratio and weight ratio. As digital scales are more accurate than a visual indicator on the side of a measuring container we tend to favour this method for measuring out the resin and hardener.

The kit can be purchased through our website: www.glasscastresin.com/resin-flowers-kit and the links to buy the individual materials are in the video description above 🙂

The kit can be purchased through our website: www.glasscastresin.com/resin-flowers-kit and the links to buy the individual materials are in the video description above 🙂

The black version of the NW1 and top finish contains a pigment. Predominantly for use with carbon fibre or very dark/black coloured resin, the pigment means that if any of the polish becomes trapped in any pinholes or slight voids in the surface it is less visible than a white polish. Fundamentally both Black and Natural products will do the same job.

@@glasscastresin so it's ok to use that? Black and white was the only option they gave me, There isn't any other type correct?

@@josephcostello8207 Yes the polish will still work in the same way, just be careful if you are over polishing onto an open grained material like wood. If the polish gets into the grain it may be difficult to remove. White/natural are the same.

@@glasscastresin what I am i trying to get at is in the same way as what? Are you using the white or is there something that is not white or black?

@@josephcostello8207 Both colour of polishes work the same black and white, the only difference is the addition of the dye in the black variant.

It would depend entirely on what the item was made from. Generally speaking I would say it's better to simply let it naturally dry out.

As long as the resin is pigmented to a solid opacity then even with light colours, this technique can be used. Unfortunately it wouldn't work for translucent or tinted resin as you would see the filler material.

We don't have a US distributor im afraid. You can however purchase from our website and we can ship to you in the USA.

You just have to keep imagining the end result. 😆

Hi Wayne, they were cut out afterwards using a holesaw (for the circular cut) and jigsaw for the straight cuts using a very fine toothed blade. It needed little more than a quick polish to dress the cut edge.

The GlassCast 3 resin self levels with a flat glossy surface so there is no need for an additional top coat.

You can order the kit through our website www.glasscastresin.com/

If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.

It's inevitable that in polishing the resin the pad will cross over onto the wood and take off some of the coating. It's perfectly fine to go back and top this coating up once polishing is finished. It's recommended to give the wood a good clean first to remove any polishing compound which may have transferred onto the surface so as not to trap it under another layer of wood finish.

Thanks for the feedback.

If the resin is clear then yes you will need to polish both sides to give you the best clarity through the resin. If not, then it really depends on the finish from the mould, how likely you are to see under the table and if an unfinished surface bothers you.

The flowers should really be fully encapsulated in the resin which will prevent them from absorbing moisture and decaying any further. If they are protruding from the surface then you should cut the flowers back flush and sand out a small amount of resin around the flowers, you can fill with a small quantity of resin to seal them in place. This can then be sanded flat and polished as demonstrated in the video. Alternatively you could cut the flowers back to the surface and apply a 2mm coating of GlassCast 3. GlassCast 3 cures with a flat glossy finish so you shouldn't then need to do any more finishing work.

Thanks for commenting, it's certainly a lovely and thoughtful way to preserve precious memories! I hope that it turns out as you expect :)

I'm glad that you enjoyed the video :)

Unfortunately yes it is possibly to see some lines when pouring in multiple layers. Pouring at the 'B' stage helps keep the visibility of the lines to a minimum.

It's likely that the resin in the cup form the first pour will not be fully cured so it's a good idea to use a clean mixing cup for each layer.

The ideal time to add the next layer is when the previous one has cured to the 'B' stage and the resin has cured firm with a slight tack to the surface. With GlassCast 50 this is around 12 hours at 20°C